The Naoshima Experience

The Oval, Bennesse House Hotel and Art Museum, Naoshima Island, Japan. Photo ©Darren Bradley

I just returned from a couple of surreal weeks in Japan with the family. One of the highlights of the trip was a few days at the Bennesse House Art Museum and Hotel on Naoshima Island. It was one of the most fascinating, enjoyable, and frustrating experiences I've ever had. 

Miyanoura Ferry Terminal on Naoshima Island by SANAA. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Getting to the island is no easy feat. From Tokyo, we first spent a few days in Kyoto (more on that later). Then we took the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Okayama. From Okayama, we had to change to a slower local train, change trains at a station in a small town surrounded by farms in the middle of nowhere, and take another train to a small port town called Uno. Then, walk across the street with our bags to the ferry terminal, cross a channel in the boat, and then take a shuttle bus to the resort. By the time you arrive, you've earned it. 

But when you arrive in Naoshima, you immediately see something different about the place. There is modern art and architecture everywhere, starting with the ferry terminal where you arrive (see above). There is also an art installation at the adjoining park, complete with one of the two Yayoi Kusama giant pumpkins that are on the island. 

Photo ©Darren Bradley

The Bennesse House Art Site is a hotel composed of several different buildings scattered around the location, perched on cliffs or in adjoining coves along the water. 

There's a "No Cameras" sign next to this spot so I had to shoot this with my iPhone. Photo ©Darren Bradley

There is a modern art museum incorporated into the main building with works by many contemporary artists. 

Bennesse House Art Museum and Hotel, looking towards the Chichu Museum on the hill opposite. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Bennesse House Art Museum with Bruce Nauman work casting a pink glow (not seen). The hotel front desk can be seen through the window. iPhone Photo ©Darren Bradley

There are also two other museums that are part of the complex, and are a short walk or shuttle bus ride away.

The Chichu Museum is built underground (the word Chichu apparently means "underground") is in a hillside, and is dedicated specifically to the works of three artists - Monet, Turrell, and de Maria… 

Chichu Museum cafeteria, overlooking the Inland Sea. Apologies for the iPhone shot, but I didn't have my camera with me. I assumed photos from the outside were OK, but was told just after this photo that I wasn't allowed to take pictures of the outside, either. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Furtive iPhone shot of one of the courtyards, Chichu Museum. Photo ©Darren Bradley

…And the Lee Ufan Museum, down the hill from the Chichu. This small museum is dedicated entirely to a few selected works of that artist. 

Lee Ufan Museum entrance. No idea whether this shot is authorized or not. Photo ©Darren Bradley

The entire complex was designed by architect Tadao Ando, which gives it a cohesive feel and perfectly complements the surrounding natural beauty of the site.

 

Bennesse House Hotel Park Wing. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Beyond the art and architecture located at the Bennesse Art Site, there are other art installations around the island of Naoshima, and also associated museums on the nearby islands of Teshima and Inujima. 

The Teshima Art Museum is really more of an art and architecture installation. The structure, by architect Ryue Nishizawa (of SANAA) and artist Rei Naito, is a concrete shell. There's nothing in it. But beads of water dance on the floor, appearing and disappearing from tiny holes. It's hypnotizing and completely fascinating. It was my favorite part of the trip. Photos weren't allowed inside or outside the structure, except from a distance away. This was taken from outside the property. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Right after taking this photo, I was told that I wasn't allowed to stand here or take photos from here. Photo ©Darren Bradley

There were no signs at this spot telling me I couldn't take photos from here. But judging by the look on the faces of the people who worked there, I'm guessing there will be soon. Photo ©Darren Bradley

The gift shop and café were a similar structure, but smaller in scale and without the water droplets. Not sure if photography was allowed here or not. They didn't say anything, but they didn't look happy about it.
Photo ©Darren Bradley

It was extraordinary to be in a place so completely dedicated to modern art and architecture, and to have unprecedented access to it. Having the opportunity to sleep in a museum is something everyone should experience. I was free to wander around the exhibits in the middle of the night. It was awesome. 

So why was it so frustrating? 

Well, a couple of things, really. First and foremost, my main reason for going there as an architectural photographer was to experience the architecture and photograph it. Through photography, I can better see and understand the building - how it relates to its surroundings, how it plays in the light, etc. And I derive pleasure from creating those images. It's second nature for me, and also my idea of fun. 

Exiting the Chichu Museum through an underground tunnel. iPhone Photo ©Darren Bradley

The problem is that the people at Bennesse House have taken a very conservative, out-dated view of photography and decided to largely ban it. It's outright forbidden in any form (including cell phone images) throughout the interiors of many of the buildings, and even some of the exteriors. And where it is authorized, it's frankly frowned upon and discouraged. (Most of the photos here are from either areas where it was allowed, or where I was told after the fact that it wasn't.)  

Bennesse House Art Museum & Hotel. The restaurant is just to my right, and we had to pass through here to eat dinner in the evening. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Photo ©Darren Bradley

I was given several different reasons for this from the staff. None of them were consistent, or really made much sense. You can probably guess them but here they are (with my comments in parens): 

• It "detracts" from the overall experience (whose experience?)
• They want to control the quality of the images created of the place (many of their own commissioned images aren't that great)
• If people see photographs of it, they won't feel the need to visit in person (when has that ever happened, ever?)
• The art is copyrighted (photos of the art are considered derivative works and are not included in that copyright, as such)

Of course, most museums and other buildings in the US and around the world DO allow photography (Getty, Smithsonian, deYoung, Guggenheim, Met, LACMA, Quai Branly, Orsay, Louvre, Tate Modern, are just a few that come to mind), as do most architectural sites. And there are certainly no shortages of photographs of the Monet waterlilies or James Turrell's installations on the web. As someone I know pointed out, there are lots of photos of the Mona Lisa floating around, but does that mean people don't flock to go see it in person? It's a ridiculous and outdated notion. And in this area of social media and connectivity, it can only serve to hurt them by preventing people from knowing about what a special place they have. 

The Oval at the Bennesse House is a small, six-room hotel wing at the top of a hill, connected to the main building by a funicular rail car. Photo ©Darren Bradley

So I found myself in this beautiful treasure of modern architecture, and being told not only that I couldn't take photographs of most of it, but that I shouldn't even have my camera out. 

Photo ©Darren Bradley

And from nearly every vantage point from the outside of some of the buildings like the Chichu Art Museum and the Teshima Art Museum, I was forbidden from taking photos, as well. It was pure torture and it made me angry. 

The Oval was one of the few places they didn't seem to mind me photographing. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Of course, most people aren't photographers and they probably don't care about taking photos (although there are plenty of phone shots of all these places on the web, if you look). And if that's the case, you will thoroughly enjoy your stay and all of the things you can experience there (well, the food is a bit of an issue, too, because there's little choice and it's expensive and not that great. And there are times in the day where there's nothing available to eat). 

Bennesse House Park Wing. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Bennesse House Park Wing. Photo ©Darren Bradley

Would I go back? Probably not, unless they change their policy about photography. Should you go if you've never been? Most definitely.  But bring food! 

Photo ©Darren Bradley